I hitched without incident as far as Klagenfurt.
MY ROUTE THROUGH YUGOSLAVIA
[hitchhike] Kl(agenfurt) > L(jubljana) > R(ijeka)
[boat] R(ijeka) > Sp(lit) > D(ubrovnik) > Ko(tor)
[bus] Ko(tor) > Pe(ć) > Pr(iština)
[train] Pr(iština) > Sk(opje) > O(hrid)
[hitchhike] O(hrid) > B(eograd) and then to Genova
KLAGENFURT – RIJEKA
The ancient road from Virunum (Magdalensberg, NE of today’s Klagenfurt) to Emona (Ljubljana) crosses the Karavanke at the Loibl/Ljubelj pass.
I had a ride with a Cleveland hotelier (Cleveland being the U.S. city with the largest population of immigrants from Slovenia) over the pass using the old mountain road (which was closed in 1967). Nowadays the only direct route, as on the map above, uses the tunnel that was built with forced labour from the Mauthausen concen-tration camp, March 1943 -December 1944. Unbeknownst to me, only a short distance from our route lay the village of Sele, which would become like a second home to me within two decades, and on the left-hand side of the old road that we used to cross the pass were tracts of forest, one of which belonged to the family of Max and Mojca Travnik, whom I stayed with in 1978-79 (and later), and learned the Selsko dialect from.It may have been a section of the forest on this picture:
With my British passport I had no problems at the border, but the officials did not often deal with an American accompanied by a Briton, and the formalities did take some time. As we waited for our passports we saw what was obviously a would-be defector to Austria being hustled in handcuffs into a closed vehicle (cf. what I saw in Ohrid, next page!)
City and castle:
The Triple Bridge (Tromostovje):
Mestni trg (the old City Market Square):
From sleepy Ljubljana I hitched
and then took the cheapest coast-hugging boats that I could find, down along the Adriatic, stopping for a night or two each in Split, Dubrovnik and Kotor.
(What a delight for my purse — at least — was it to quickly learn that the ladies who met the boats at these ports shouting “spati” were offering their rooms, not themselves.)
THE ISLANDS OFF ZADAR
From the hill on which lay the house where I rented a room:
and the road down:
Sveti Grgur Ninski (St. Gregory of Nin), by Ivan Meštrović. He “strongly apposed the Pope and official church circles, and, according to Croatian hisoriography, introduced the national language into religious services in 926” (Wikipedia).
On the way to Dubrovnik the boat stopped off at
and then we sailed to
DUBROVNIK. I rented a good room just outside the city, well within walking distance, and stayed two nights.
I walked all round the city on the path along the top of the wall:
The Strádun or Placa is the main street. It is thronged with pedestrians in the evening, walking from one end to the other, greeting and being greeted, seeing and being seen (a custom, often referred to as the promenade along the Corso) in many cities south of a certain latitude, from Spain to (I believe) China (in pre-Communist times at least).
Location of Kotor:
On the coast north of Kotor:
The Gulf of Kotor:
The entrance to the Gulf:
Scenes inside the Gulf:
I rented a very inexpensive but comfortable room. The city:
The next morning I left by bus for Peć.