Yugoslavia (1): Klagenfurt – Kotor

I hitched without incident as far as Klagenfurt.

MY ROUTE THROUGH YUGOSLAVIA
Screen Shot 2019-07-24 at 9.16.04 PM.png[hitchhike] Kl(agenfurt) > L(jubljana) > R(ijeka)
[boat] R(ijeka) > Sp(lit) > D(ubrovnik) > Ko(tor)
[bus] Ko(tor)
> Pe(ć) > Pr(iština)
[train] Pr(iština)
> Sk(opje) > O(hrid)
[hitchhike] O(hrid) > B(eograd) and then to Genova

KLAGENFURT – RIJEKA
Screen Shot 2019-07-21 at 8.19.16 PM.pngThe ancient road from  Virunum (Magdalensberg, NE of today’s Klagenfurt) to Emona (Ljubljana) crosses the Karavanke at the Loibl/Ljubelj pass.
Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 3.56.45 PM.pngI had a ride with a Cleveland hotelier (Cleveland being the U.S. city with the largest population of immigrants from Slovenia) over the pass using the old mountain road (which was closed in 1967). Nowadays the only direct route, as on the map above, uses the tunnel that was built with forced labour from the Mauthausen concen-tration camp, March 1943 -December 1944. Unbeknownst to me, only a short distance from our route lay the village of Sele, which would become like a second home to me within two decades, and on the left-hand side of the old road that we used to cross the pass were tracts of forest, one of which belonged to the family of Max and Mojca Travnik, whom I stayed with in 1978-79 (and later), and learned the Selsko dialect from.It may have been a section of the forest on this picture:Screen Shot 2019-07-25 at 9.17.56 PM

With my British passport I had no problems at the border, but the officials did not often deal with an American accompanied by a Briton, and the formalities did take some time. As we waited for our passports we saw what was obviously a would-be defector to Austria being hustled in handcuffs into a closed vehicle (cf. what I saw in Ohrid, next page!)

LJUBLJANA.
City and castle:Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 3.44.24 PM.png
nowadays:002a. ljubljana-grad.jpeg
The Triple Bridge (Tromostovje):
003a. Ljubljana Tromostovje.jpg
nowadays:
003ax.Tromostovje.1.jpeg
“Pod trančo”:
Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 3.52.46 PM.png
nowadays:003bx. Pod trančo.jpeg
Mestni trg (the old City Market Square):
004. Ljubljana Mestni trg.jpg
nowadays:004a. mestni-trg-ljubljana-slovenia+12854174035-tpfil02aw-14433.jpeg

From sleepy Ljubljana I hitched

Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 4.10.37 PM.pngto Rijeka
Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 4.12.31 PM.pngand then took the cheapest coast-hugging boats that I could find, down along the Adriatic, stopping for a night or two each in Split, Dubrovnik and Kotor.
Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 8.37.47 PM.png(What a delight for my purse — at least — was it to quickly learn that the ladies who met the boats at these ports shouting “spati” were offering their rooms, not themselves.)

THE ISLANDS OFF ZADAR
Screen Shot 2019-07-26 at 8.45.37 PM.pngScreen Shot 2019-07-26 at 8.45.53 PM.png

SPLIT
Split Harbour min.png
From the hill on which lay the house where I rented a room:
Split from hill min.png
and the road down:
014. Split.jpg

Diocletian’s Palace:
010. Split.jpg013. Split.jpg
Sveti Grgur Ninski (St. Gregory of Nin), by Ivan Meštrović. He “strongly apposed the Pope and official church circles, and, according to Croatian hisoriography, introduced the national language into religious services in 926” (Wikipedia).015. Split.jpg
016. Split.jpg

On the way to Dubrovnik the boat stopped off at
KORČULA
Screen Shot 2019-07-29 at 9.03.01 PM.png
018. Korčula.jpg
and then we sailed to
DUBROVNIK. I rented a good room just outside the city, well within walking distance, and stayed two nights.Screen Shot 2019-07-29 at 9.06.51 PM.png
031. Dubrovnik.jpg
024. Dubrovnik.jpg
I walked all round the city on the path along the top of the wall:
020. Dubrovnik.jpg
023. Dubrovnik.jpg

Screen Shot 2019-07-31 at 5.45.24 PM.png
025. Dubrovnik.jpg
The Strádun or Placa is the main street. It is thronged with pedestrians in the evening, walking from one end to the other, greeting and being greeted, seeing and being seen (a custom, often referred to as the promenade along the Corso) in many cities south of a certain latitude, from Spain to (I believe) China (in pre-Communist times at least).
027. Dubrovnik.jpg
028. Dubrovnik.jpg
026. Dubrovnik.jpg029. Dubrovnik.jpg
Leaving Dubrovnik:
Screen Shot 2019-07-29 at 9.27.18 PM.png
Screen Shot 2019-07-29 at 9.28.12 PM.png

Location of Kotor:Screen Shot 2019-07-31 at 5.47.39 PM.png
On the coast north of Kotor:
033a.png
034a.png
The Gulf of Kotor:Screen Shot 2019-07-31 at 5.48.32 PM.png
The entrance to the Gulf:035a.png
Scenes inside the Gulf:
036. in Kotor Gulf.jpg
037. in Kotor Gulf.jpg
038. in Kotor Gulf.jpg
Approaching Kotor:
039. Kotor.jpg
I rented a very inexpensive but comfortable room. The city:
040. Kotor.jpg041. Kotor.jpg
The next morning I left by bus for Peć.

Yugoslavia (2): Kotor – Beograd